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Fall Fashion with Christian

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Although it doesn’t quite feel like it, fall is just around the corner.  Fall is my favorite season so I recently sat down with Fiftyisthenewfifty’s fashion guy Christian to discuss the trends coming up for fall and winter.

Beth:  So Christian, what are the hot colors for fall and winter this year?

Christian:  One of the colors we are seeing a lot of is red.  Different shades of red are the key colors for fall.  Anything dark red, oxblood, burgundy, deep raspberry, deep pink….all are big colors for fall.  Marni did amazing leather outerwear pieces in it.  Kenzo also did a great trench in the color.  Lanvin did a beautiful patent leather trench and matching sheath in a kind of oxblood or deep red color.  Narciso Rodriquez used shades of red also.  Another key color is electric blue and shades of brighter blue like a bright cerulean.  I saw that color in a lot of collections.   Icy colors like icy blue and pink are in.  Jil Sander did icy colors and I saw it in furs also.  Some evening dresses included satins in icy colors, even sequins in those colors.  Erdem did that…there was a lot of that color in his collections. Other key pops of color I’ve seen are in deep green and mustard.  Lanvin did mustard and brown tweeds.  Diane Von Furstenberg did a lot of interesting acidy colors as well as mustard and greens.  Her collection was really beautiful with a lot of elegant and sophisticated looks with a little touch of studio 54.

Beth: Aside from the colors, what are some of the other trends you are seeing?

Christian:  Dresses that are longer; around the knee or just below the knee.  I haven’t seen a lot of short dresses this year.

Beth:  That’s a good trend for our readers!

C: Well yes, it’s a little more ladylike and elegant.  Again you should wear the length that works best for you, but I haven’t seen a lot of short dresses unless maybe it is something for evening, kind of cocktail look.   Another trend that started last season and continues, is color blocking which is when you have sections of the garment in different colors either in vertical, horizontal or even patchwork designs.  The Row did color blocking but they did it with fur in a fur coat that is color blocked.  Celine did more of patchwork idea with color blocking.  Narciso Rodriquez also did color blocking but in a more diagonal or geometric shape.  Phillip Lim also worked it with fur.

Beth: So people are using a lot of fur again?

Christian: The trend is really more fur accents.  CO, a really cool design team that is has been building a lot of momentum, did coats where the upper half is wool but the whole bottom half is fur.  They are really awesome.   I’m seeing a lot of things like that.  Using fur in interesting treatments instead of full fur looks.   This is a cool, hip way of doing fur that is a little fresher.  Phillip Lim did a lot of things like that.  Givenchy also used a lot of fur and mixed textures and color with more assembled looks.

B: What else have you seen?

C: Asian prints are making a strong comeback.  Dries Van Noten did an amazing collection that was huge.  He was inspired by screens and Asian art that he had seen in museums in London and he used fragments of photos of screens and assembled these amazing collages that then became the prints.   Proenza Schouler also did a lot of Chinese inspired prints and used the sort of traditional Chinese shapes but interpreted them in their own way, more geometric and architectural.  Haider Ackermann and Givenchy also had Asian influences but more of a Japanese kimono draping.  Even though I hate paisley it is showing up this fall.  Rag and Bone did paisley but it is sort of subtle with just a touch of it.  A paisley blouse or scarf or beaded paisley is on trend for this year.

B: How about pants?

C: I’ve seen printed pants with African type prints.  Rag and Bone did printed pants. For pants, longer trousers and printed pants is something I’ve seen a lot of.  Chloe and Celine are doing great pants now.  They are a little longer and fuller.  Not everything has been as tight as it has been which is probably better for most women.  The shape is a little looser.

B: Looser and not so tight is a good thing! Any other things that you like for daywear?

C: Peplum.  Peplum jackets, tops and dresses.  It’s funny because a few years ago Prada did a collection with amazing peplum and people made fun of the clothes, but now we are seeing a lot of peplum.   This time it’s kind of a cross between the 80s and the 40s.  Kenzo and Stella McCartney and Lanvin all did pieces with the peplum detail and they are sort of dressier and elegant.  Peplums are a great way to cover a thicker waist or middle.  It’s a fun fashiony look.  Kenzo’s peplum tops are a great look with leggings or narrow pant.  Also leather is a trend.   Black leather leggings, vests and jackets are in.  Leather pants don’t have to be quite so tight….more of a trouser look than tight.  Also a lot of details like leather pockets or the collars on fabric garments.  Leather embellishments are on trend and kind of cool.  Lastly, I’ve been seeing tweed.  Marc Jacobs did a lot of tweed in his collection.  It’s tweed that is sort of treated where it goes from light to dark like an hombre effect.  It has a beautiful shine or finish.  Celine and Lanvin also did this.

B:  How about trends for evening clothes?

C:  For evening we are seeing a lot of brocade and chacard.  Marni, Dolce and Gabbana and Balmain all did really exquisite brocades.  Balmain’s are also beaded on top.  That is something that is definitely a trend for evening.  Embellishments are something we are seeing a lot of for evening.  Dolce and Gabbana did really exquisite beaded capes and dresses where they used gold filigree that almost looked like molding in a French castle.  Lanvin and Nina Ricci did really great beading embellishments.  Oscar De LaRenta did beaded embellishments but also did prints that look like they have jewels in various places around the fabric.  Velvet is a really strong trend for fall.  A velvet jacket in black, burgundy, rust or purple.  Definitely invest in something velvet, especially for evening.  A black or red velvet dress for the holidays…nothing looks better.  Dolce and Gabbana did velvet and other more abstract designers did velvet.  Joseph Altuzarra, a rising star on the NY scene, worked with velvet in pants and jackets.  Marni did velvet shoes and Diane Von Furstenburg did a beautiful dropped waist black velvet dress that had a party vibe to it.  L’wren Scott also did beautiful velvet.  She did a beautiful purple velvet coat dress and also a long sleeve purple dress.  She is a great designer for someone who wants to be more demure and covered but still wants to look elegant and sexy.  Her fit is amazing.  She is over 6 ft tall and her whole point of view is an elongated silhouette.  Her dresses are good because they are all below the knee and most have sleeves.  She has a dress that is called the schoolmarm dress but it is the sexiest schoolmarm you could find.  Nicole Kidman, Ellen Barkin and lot of people have worn it.  It is quite fitted and elegant.

B:  If you could pick 2 trends for our readers that they should spend some money on, what would they be?

C: Definitely you need a great dress and coat.  Especially a dress that you can wear to a lot of different occasions.

Thanks Christian.  Next week we will talk to Christian about the fall trends in outerwear and accessories.

 

 

 

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