The Fashion Perspective – What’s New for Fall
July 30, 2011
Christian Freedom was born and raised on Long Island and attended Sarah Lawrence college where he received a BA in theater, design and art history. After moving to New York City where he initially worked as a model and actor, Christian went on to design costumes for theater, dance, print, and independent films. He also worked as a sales stylist at several high end boutiques. He is currently a jewelry designer(website: travestybijoux.com) and stylist. He will periodically be offering readers of Fiftyisthenewfifty his perspective on fashion. I met with Christian recently to discuss fall fashion trends in clothes and accessories.
1) What were the highlights of New York fashion week of the designers you saw?
Christian Freedom: Well Gustav Barcelona did a lot of interesting sweaters with funky details like beading and embellishments. Tommy Hilfiger did a lot of long dresses for day; shirt dresses to the floor. He did beautiful hats which are strong for fall. He showed felted hats that were very wearable in chocolate brown, green, dark purple, rust which was sort of his pallete. You could have seen a young Ali MacGraw in these clothes. Zang Toi had a show that was super glamorous. I don’t know if it was totally of the moment but if you felt like really going glamorous for a night and wanted to go full throttle, you could wear these clothes. It was mostly emerald green and black. The necklaces were huge collars of stones and the dresses themselves had lots of stones. It was kind of like Hollywood glamour meets Victorian gowns….pretty breathtaking actually. Bibhu Mohapatra’s collection really suited older woman because there was coverage but yet interesting necklines and hemlines. A lot of it was asymetrical and kind of architectural. I think some of it was a little overthought, but there were some beautiful dresses with sleeves and some great fur details which is on trend for fall. It was a very glamorous, sophisticated wealthy look. Mulan Pretand did a Asian inspired story with some great kimono dresses. Some of the jackets were great and his menswear was pretty strong. Naeem Khan had lots of gowns with trains, a lot black, a lot of grey and some lighter tones. He is really the go to designer if you are in a wedding or getting married yourself. The dresses were red carpet but had a lighter touch.
2) What are the big trends for fall?
Christian Freedom: Leather, lots of leather…leather trim, leather details such as epaulets and cuffs, leather dresses, break out your old leather skirt. Dresses that have knit on top and leather on the bottom or vice versa. Lace is still strong. You will see longer dresses for the day; kind of casual gowny, below the knee to the ankle. Color block and collage is big. Capes and jackets with interesting details are really strong for fall. Chunky knit sweaters are in, kind of fair isle or ski looking. Suits are really big. If you have thought about buying a suit, now is the time. Whether you choose something shapely and feminine..a fitted skirt suit..or a more masculine pants suit. Suits are back and it is okay to match again. Pants or trousers. You can wear whichever type of pants that suit you, wide legs or tapered. Blouses that look modern and crisp, Snake print bags and shoes are important also. Fur scarves and fur trim. Not so much a full fur coat but if you do that, it should be a little funky with a mix of textures. Fur scarves that are in colors like burgundy and dark green mixed over a cloth coat. Patterns, whether it is geometric prints like we saw at Marni, or dark kind of gothic florals like we saw at Lanvin. Florals with dark backgrounds are on trend for fall.
3) What colors are big this year?
CF: Lots of black, obviously, navy, more browns and red. Color blocks with really bright colors like orange mixed with red or navy. Bright greens under a gray or black suit. Icy colors for evening like an icy silver or gray blouse worn with a long black velvet skirt.
4) Which designers do you think are doing the best fall fashions?
CF: Lanvin’s fall looks amazing. They have really great coats with matching fur scarves and great dresses in rust, dark green, plum and different kinds of inky blue. Many of their dresses have sleeves which is great because you don’t have to layer as much and just feel pulled together and modern. Haider Ackermann looks good for fall. Celine looks great. Also Chloe has great sport pieces like chunky sweaters, nice pants, and great coats.
5) What designer styles have you seen that look good on more mature women?
CF: I think The Row, believe it or not, has been really great for women who are older. The lines are clean, they use great fabrics, and don’t have a lot embellishment or detail. Very simple but when you put it on, it looks luxurious and understated. Their furs look cool because they are hip and light weight. Ric Owens looks young and modern but has clean lines. Prada for fall looks great, especially the coats. Some of it is young looking, but I think some of the coats are great and they have some really nice suits. They also have some great accessories. Adrienne Vittadini did a whole capsule collection. They are trying to bring that line back. All the women who were in the show were from the ages of 30 to 50 and modeled in the 80s and 90s. The clothes were very fresh and the collection could be your whole wardrobe since there was only about 20 pieces that all worked together. I think also Michael Kors and Vera Wang had some nice pieces for mature women for fall. She did some really beautiful dresses.
6) If you can’t buy a whole new wardrobe, what 3 or 4 pieces should you buy to update your wardrobe?
CF: Something leather, whether it is a leather jacket, dress or trench. Something snakeskin whether it is shoes, boots or a bag. A great coat can wind up being a key piece that you wear with everything. Also, I would buy a suit.
7) What accessories are in for the fall?
CF: Interesting boots that have interesing heels. Prada did these boots that looked like a shoe with a sock that were fun. Motorcycle type boots. Loafers are really strong. People are moving away from the ballet flats and doing more loafers with heels, without heels and platforms; all kinds of different loafers. Fur details in hats or scarves. Hats themselves are great for fall. It is kind of a continuation of what we saw at the royal wedding with fascinators. I actually think they should be called captivators. You can wear cocktail hats, either vintage or something new. Take an old black sheath dress and add a fun cocktail hat for a fresh look. Also wide brim felted hats are looking chic for fall. Things that are quirky like necklaces and scarves. Marni did things like this. Pieces with humor. Jewelry that looks like wearable art made out of plastic or unusual fabric or material. Brooches are strong; layering different types of brooches, Rhinestone brooches in a cluster on jackets. Clusters of pins.
8) You’re a jewelry designer, what kind of necklaces are you making for the fall?
CF: Things that are whimsical and light. I love things that are ruffled. I’ve made some gold lame’ ruffle necklaces. I also made one out of tiny little dolls. I’m trying to use things that are humorous and things that are conversation pieces. Statement jewelry with unsual beads and a collage. Pieces that are collage oriented. Jewelry where half of it is pearls and half of it is chain and there is a flower. More artsy.
9) You mentioned different kind of heels for shoes. What other shoe trends have you seen for fall?
CF: Believe it or not, open toe is a big trend for fall with black or colored tights. Boots that have that detail also. I’m still seeing a lot of wedges. Stilettos are not that much of a look for fall. The heel height has gotten a little lower for fall also. Shoes that are kind of quirky and artsy lookings. Prada did shoes that were a mix of different colors. You can update a black sheath dress by putting some quirky unusual shoes with it and it looks very now and of the moment.
10) For the fall are there any fashion exhibits that people can go to see?
CF: Well the big one for NY is going to be Daphne Guiness collection of clothes at FIT starting in Sept. She’s known as the muse of Alexander McQueen but she also has designed and collaborated with a lot of designers on clothes. She also purchased the entire clothing archive of Isabella Blow when she died. This show at FIT she is co-curating is hightlights of the wardrobe she has been collecting over the years as well as pieces she has designed herself. I’m sure it will be a hot ticket. The other big thing for the fall, although it is not an exhibit, is the H&M collaboration with Versace. Of course, there will be another fashion night out with every store having an event. Vogue does a fashion show at Lincoln center before fashion week. The tickets are expensive but it is a benefit and is really fun. It is kind of the September issue coming to life and is put together beautifully and a good way to see overall trends. If you can’t go, you can watch it online.
Thanks Christian!